For Better Tuna Salad Sandwiches, With Mayo or Without, Add More Fish

It's simple math: more tuna = better sandwich.

This knowledge of umami has also led me to shift away from Worcestershire sauce in my tuna salad, since Worcestershire has an assertive and distinct enough flavor that you can always kind of tell it's there. My preference instead is fish sauce or very finely minced anchovy, both of which have a fishy flavor that disappears into the tuna mix without a trace, save for a satisfyingly savory punch in the mouth.

I bought just about every brand I could find of oil-packed tuna, along with a couple of water-packed samples, then whipped up tuna salad using each kind. Following my discussion above about what kind of tuna to use, this is a case where you really will get the best results with a higher-quality canned or jarred oil-packed tuna, especially ventresca, which is the fattier belly cut. You may wonder whether you can get away with a lesser canned tuna, shredding it as finely as possible, as in the mayo version above, then bathing the whole thing in olive oil to moisten it up.

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