Despite what the name implies, the Richmond bar offers a comfortable oasis for anyone seeking comfort at the end of the year
Trying to fight off the chaotic feelings of the holidays while staying motivated to get through the end of a very eventful 2025, I found myself at the aptly named Lost Marbles at 823 Clement St. I hadn’t quite lost my mind yet.
But for those feeling on the verge, a trip to this brewpub might just be the cure for what ails you. On an unusually sunny day for San Francisco — and especially for the Richmond district — I was enveloped in a cozy atmosphere created by the entrance’s fireplace and the bar and tables, which look like they were made from salvaged wood. The bar is large, with a nine-screen array of televisions dominating the back wall. But its displays of whatever sports game or crime procedural is airing provide comforting background noise. While Lost Marbles is known first and foremost for its beers, the place has a cheeky and inventive cocktail menu drafted through a collaboration among its staff. On my recent visit I met with Mad Brown, Philippe Jault and Ivan Hopkinson behind the bar to learn more about their experimental drinks. The trio spent most of the afternoon bickering affectionately like an old married throuple, starting with the topic of their job titles.“He actually is in charge of our HR,” Hopkinson said. After some cajoling, I managed to get a better sense of what their roles were. Hopkinson is the reluctant co-owner, who throughout the interview kept emphasizing that he preferred to let his staff take the reins — although he admitted they’ve bullied him into some decisions, such as the name of the place itself. “All of my managers were in a meeting,” he said. “I was off doing other things. I came in, I lost something and they were all trying to help me out, and I really did not want anybody's help.”“I was like, ‘I swear to God, one more f---ing comment, we're calling the place, ‘Lost Marbles,’” Hopkinson said. “And they were all like, ‘Oh, that's really good.’” When patrons ask the staff who the owner is, the staffers are often instructed to just say they are instead of pointing to Hopkinson.During one of his first vacations after opening the bar following the relaxation of COVID-19 stay-at-home orders, he checked the security cameras and saw staff installing the televisions without having asked him first.But he said he prefers it this way — and that he’s lucky to have such a good team. One such team member is Brown, who Hopkinson finally said was one of his business partners while also serving as a bartender. Jault is one of the newest staffers, marking his first year as a bartender at Lost Marbles on Dec. 6. Jault and one of his colleagues also started a new side cocktail program in recent weeks — without telling Hopkinson — in which they experiment with new creations while working on Sundays.Essentially, the ethos at Lost Marbles is about asking for forgiveness, not permission. That felt fitting for any bar in San Francisco — even more so for one with such a name. Ex // Top Stories Market watchers mostly optimistic for IPO rebound in 2026 Lower interest rates, growing comfort with reduced valuations and pressure for venture investors likely to push startups to Wall Street, experts say Lurie, police brass celebrate new real-time crime investigations center Critics have assailed its funding, purpose An enduring Mid-Market clothes boutique that closed for a day of thanks Oxford Street, a colorful clothing store, went dark for one of only two times this year for Thanksgiving — and then it’s back to work I asked the trio to walk me through some cocktails they felt best represented the bar, and what I got was instead a run-through of cocktails that they themselves loved. After chatting with them for just a few minutes, it felt appropriate. Some of the trio’s creations — such as the whiskey-shot-and-pickle-back combo known as the D--- Pic — are already on the menu. Others, such as the mescal-based Grounds for Divorce, you have to be in the know to get. First, Jault showed me the Eve’s Serpent, one of his creations. It was essentially a Bee’s Knees with cognac instead of gin. I first filled a coupe glass with cold ice to chill it before adding 2 ounces of St-Remy VSOP cognac to a metal shaker. I then added three-fourths of an ounce of lime juice and three-fourths of an ounce of honey syrup — made with a 1-to-1 ratio of honey and water — followed by two dashes of grapefruit bitters, and then a tiny dot of habanero bitters. After adding ice to the shaker, I shook the mixture until my hands felt numb. After it was double-strained over the chilled and empty coupe glass, the final touch was a slice of dehydrated apple as garnish. The cocktail tasted like a seasonal, fall offering, but with an extra zing from the lime juice and the habanero bitters, making it exceptionally dangerous and easily drinkable. My version, sadly, went a bit awry when I mixed up the habanero bitters with the grapefruit bitters, and mine had a bit of extra heat. However, that mistake was met with some approval from the crew. “Cocktails are living, breathing things,” Brown said. “The greatest cocktails were made on accident.” Jault said he created the Eve’s Serpent — and chose it for me — because he was originally from Belgium, and at times felt a bit homesick. “My dad is from a region that's not in Cognac, but it's not far off,” he said. “I grew up around a lot of ...”“Well, you can never leave now,” Brown said. Jault leaned his head on Brown’s shoulder, and I was very much appreciative of this rare show of positive masculinity. Brown, who quickly established himself as the wild card of the group, decided to show me his — and what he would argue is the most authentic — version of a Sazerac. I was familiar with the cocktail, having had one in New Orleans. But so far in this column, I had yet to be tasked with making one. Brown’s recipe started with a rocks glass and a tiny splash of absinthe. I swirled the absinthe around to coat the inside of the glass before dumping the residual drops out. Then, in a glass tumbler, I combined 1½ ounces of cognac with 1½ ounces of rye whiskey. When Brown made one, he neglected to use the uber-authentic Sazerac rye whiskey Lost Marbles had behind the bar, opting for a generic rye whiskey instead. I chose to use the Sazerac rye for mine. Then, I added seven dashes of Peychaud’s bitters and one dash of grapefruit bitters. The concoction was finished with a splash of simple syrup that Brown emphasized you must “feel with your heart” to determine the necessary amount. After stirring vigorously with the nonbusiness end of a bar spoon for about 25 rotations, or until the tumbler got cold, I strained the mixture into the rocks glass and topped it with a lemon peel, twisted over the top and the rim to expel the oil. Now, I have a pet peeve about any cocktail in a rocks glass being served neat — it’s too easy for it to get warm. But Brown insisted that this is how it’s served in New Orleans, where it’s hot and the drink is thrown back quickly. Now, Brown's demonstration cocktail was good. But with my version, I stepped up and used the Sazerac rye whiskey. After tasting both, all three present declared I was the winner. Not to brag, but the cocktail was layered and smooth, with just the right amount of bite — and yes, I could see throwing it back on a hot day by the bayou. Honestly, you should go to Lost Marbles for the cocktails and the cozy vibes in the typically foggy Richmond. But you’ll stay for the comedic stylings and shenanigans of the staff. Even now, I’m not sure who’s really in charge. If someone figures it out, let me know.
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