Utah’s most underrated national park is ideal for those who take their wilderness with a large dose of solitude.
The sun rises on the sandstone rock formations, Temple of the Sun and Moon, in Utah's Lower Cathedral Valley in Capitol Reef National Park. Utah’s most underrated national park is ideal for those who take their wilderness with a large dose of solitude.
The 19th-century pioneers of Wayne County described Capitol Reef as “a bad place to lose a cow.” Fast forward more than a century andCapitol Reef is unique, starting with the fact that it rarely feels crowded. On any given day, you might be the only person hiking a particular trail or gazing down from an awesome viewpoint. Because Utah Highway 24 cuts across the middle of Capitol Reef, it’s one of the few national parks that visitors can sample without paying an entrance fee. Last but not least, this park is like a microcosm of other Utah parks. It’s got soaring stone arches and towering red rock cliffs, narrow slot canyons and a lush river corridor, an array of typical Southwest wildlife—all built on the park’s rich history.Each season has its highlights, so it is hard to choose which time is best to visit Capitol Reef National Park. Spring is when visitation increases, and for good reason. The weather is great for hiking and the fruit orchards are in bloom. In the summer, the orchards start to bear fruit, and visitors can taste ripe apricots or peaches fresh from the trees. Summer usually brings monsoon rains, and getting an early start is key to avoiding the heat. Autumn brings the return of great hiking weather and earlier sunsets mean great night sky viewing without having to stay up late. With nighttime temperatures often below freezing between November and March, there’s the possibility of light snow, especially at the park’s higher elevations.Capitol Reef offers two entirely different types of panoramas: looking up at the colossal geology from ground level or looking down from cliff-top overlooks. The parking lot and picnic area at Capitol Gorge offers one of the best panoramic views from the Golden Throne on the left to jagged Eph Hanks Tower on the right. Another neck-craning adventure is the Grand Wash Trail, which includes a spectacular slot canyon called The Narrows. Looking down often requires a steep ascent to lofty overlooks like Cassidy Arch and the Rim Overlook Trail all the way to the Navajo Knobs at the end. The Cohab Canyon Trail offers bird’s-eye-views of the Fruita Historic District. Not all the canyon views require hefty hikes. Visitors can drive to Goosenecks Overlook and walk the short trail to aptly named can be accessed from either end of the gorge: a turnoff on Highway 24 or the parking area at the end of Grand Wash Road . The same parking lot is also the starting point for the Cassidy Arch Trail, 3.4 miles out and back, ascending 670 feet over a rocky footpath.,” where early Mormon settlers etched their names, recording their presence in the area. Nearby, the Golden Throne Trail is a strenuous trek to the stone terraces beneath the Golden Throne, one of the park’s sandstone behemoths. Travelers can see the Fremont Culture petroglyphs in the Fruita area of Capitol Reef National Park. The Indigenous people created the ancient rock carvings between 600 and 1300 A.D.Spotting wildlife in Capitol Reef is largely a matter of timing and luck. The best times are before sunrise and after sundown, when many animals venture out to feed. In the heart of the park, Fruita Historic District is usually home to rock squirrels, white-tailed antelope squirrels, gray foxes, ravens, and lizards. The Fremont River and Sulphur Creek—two major water sources—are great for bird watching. Mule deer and marmots are often seen grazing in the fruit orchards even in the middle of the day. With keen eyes or binoculars, it’s possible to spot desert bighorn sheep on the upper slopes of Grand Wash and Capitol Gorge. Gaze upwards for golden eagles and peregrine falcons.“One day is plenty of time to spend in the Fruita area of the park,” says ranger Shauna Cotrell, the Capitol Reef visitor services program manager. If you’ve got more time, she suggests cruising the Scenic Drive, going for a couple of walks or hikes, and stopping at several historic places. “There are 15 trails in the Fruita area, along State Route 24, and the Scenic Drive. These hikes range from short and easy to longer, more strenuous hikes. For folks interested in history, the Petroglyph Panel and the Gifford House are worth a stop too. “For folks looking for a quieter spot, they may want to hike Cohab Canyon Trail or the Fremont River Trail. Both are moderate hikes with nice views but are not as busy as Hickman Bridge.”Hike the Frying Pan Trail, which connects two popular hikes but is much less traveled. Find solitude as you immerse yourself in the diverse geology of the park. Another major benefit to Frying Pan is that it’s easily accessible from the park’s front country. Pay attention to trail markers and signs, since you’re likely to be alone on the hike and there are challenging elevation changes.has hosted human inhabitants for thousands of years, from ancient Native American people to Mormon pioneers who founded a farming community in the valley in the 1870s.that date back between 600 and 1300 C.E., and a pioneer-era one-room schoolhouse, blacksmith shed, and horse barn. Erected in 1908,is a museum and store, and houses pioneer-era photos, furnishings, decorative art, and framing equipment complemented by local handicrafts and freshly baked pies.meanders down the west side of the Waterpocket Fold escarpment. Roadside panels or signs along the route highlight history, geology, and vegetation. There’s also a turnoff for the trailheads to Grand Wash and Cassidy Dome. But the biggest treat comes at the southern end of Scenic Drive—remarkable Capitol Gorge with its towering sandstone giants and hiking trail through a slot canyon.was named for colossal, eroded rock formations that reminded pioneers of Gothic cathedrals. A primitive campground is on-site, but there are no other facilities. Access isn’t easy. Four-wheel-drive or a high-clearance vehicle is necessary along the last stretch of the 50-mile route through Fishlake National Forest along the park’s western edge.in the park’s deep south features geological wonders like the Oyster Shell Reef, Muley Twist Canyon, and Strike Valley. Visitors can overnight at Cedar Mesa Campground or follow primitive trails into the backcountry. Most people explore the area on a Loop-The-Fold Driving Tour, a 124-mile route that includes portions of the unpaved Notom-Bullfrog Road and Burr Trail. Hickman Bridge, a 125-foot-tall, 133-foot-wide sandstone bridge, is a popular natural landmark in Capitol Reef National Park, accessible via the Hickman Bridge Trail, a moderate 1.8-mile round-trip hike located off Highway 24.“Families have so many options in the park,” says ranger Shauna Cotrell. “Grand Wash or Capitol Gorge are both great easy hikes popular with families. They are in the bottom of canyons and families can spend as much time as they like in them.” Another good family hike is the Fremont River Trail, which runs alongside the river and passes several orchards where visitors can harvest ripe fruit with equipment provided by the park. In the Fruita Historic District, the Doc Inglesby Picnic Area offers a large grassy space with tall trees, a place where kids can run and play or sit in the shade with snacks. Horses graze the meadow beside the historic Fruita Barn. “Panoramic desert views from the edge of towering cliffs are just as mind blowing for kids as their parents,” Cotrell adds. “But you must be super careful, especially at viewpoints or along trails that are not fenced or walled.is the park’s only developed camping area. Set along the Fremont River in the historic district, 71 sites can accommodate everything from tents to RVs. There are no RV utility hookups, but the campground does feature a dump station and water fill station. Mandatory reservations are available at Those who venture deep into the park can overnight at Cathedral Campground in the far north and Cedar Mesa Campground in the deep south. These primitive campgrounds are first-come first-serve and offer no amenities other than pit toilets. Backpackers can camp just about anywhere in the backcountry, but all overnight stays outside of the three established campgrounds require an overnight permit from the visitor center.Utah Highway 24 cuts straight across the national park between the towns of Torrey and Hanksville. The park’s remote northern area is accessed via the Cathedral Valley Loop Road, the secluded southern area via the Notom-Bullfrog Road.Located just off Highway 24 near the park’s west entrance, the visitor center is open year-round. Hours are 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. from March throughNovember and 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. in December and February.$20 per vehicle, $15 per motorcycle, $10 per person for those without their own vehicle .Pets must be always leashed and are not allowed on hiking trails, the visitor center, other public buildings, and anywhere in the backcountry.Given its rugged topography, most of Capitol Reef is not easily accessible. However, there are many accessible options in and around the Fruita Historic District including the visitor center, several pioneer structures, and the picnic area. Fruita Campground has four accessible sites. Portions of the Fremont River Trail and the boardwalk leading to the Fremont Culture Petroglyphs are wheelchair accessible as well as many of the overlooks and wayside exhibits along Highway 24 and Scenic Road.
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