.plattypants traveled to Copenhagen to dine among the Nomaheads
Illustration: Sam Vanallemeersch Before we get to the savory tart that is decorated with a delicate, lacelike pattern of fuzzy white mold, let’s start with the edible butterfly. It arrives like a calling card at the 2.
It is Gordinier who convinced this dyspeptic, big-city critic to come dine among the chef’s inner circle of acolytes and admirers, many of whom will follow Redzepi and his rambling team of foraging cooks and fermenters to the ends of the Earth — in addition to two versions of Noma in his native Denmark, Redzepi has run pop-up events in Sydney, Tokyo, and Tulum, Mexico — to hear his philosophies on cooking and the nature of taste, as well as to sample his challenging, obsessively reworked, often...
The assembled Nomaheads have heard these prattling complaints before, of course, and they receive them with a kind of beatific calm. Gordinier is normally a jolly soul, prone to spouting snatches of song lyrics and poetry, and he’s no fan of 50 Best hysteria, but on this evening, as the butterflies begin to alight on the tables around us, he has a serious, expectant look on his face. In his checked shirt and natty blue suit, he even looks a little like he’s dressed up to go to church.
In person, Redzepi cultivates an unassuming everyman style , and when we meet for a short walkabout through his little Faulknerian corner of Copenhagen he tells me that he never learned to drive a car. “I never even tried,” he says, in his merry, emphatic, charmingly offhand way, as if cars aren’t something one needs to bother with in order to lead a productive, civilized life.
Like many creative spirits, Redzepi is attracted to outsiders and misfits who have curious, unexpected ways of looking at the world. When Zilber decided he wanted a change in his life, he wrote blind letters to several of the world’s top chefs, and found himself welcomed at Noma because Redzepi was the only one who bothered to reply.
Shortly afterward, the mold portion of our meal commences. There are cuttings of fresh asparagus preserved in snowy frostings of mold; the carefully rendered, lacy-looking mold tart served by Redzepi himself ; and a folded taco pancake filled with a cool dissolving substance that tastes of truffles and seaweed and gently melting cheese, before it dissolves into a kind of delicious, granular, umami-laced nothingness as you eat it with your fingers.
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