An approach that helps you get the result you want—whether it's more savory or more sweet.
Grilling the chicken livers gives you the best flavor, but broiling is easier and faster. We let you choose which method to use.We think schmaltz is the only real choice for chopped liver, but you can use a neutral vegetable oil if you wish.
Unfortunately, it's all too common nowadays to meet people, many of them Jewish, who grimace and wrinkle their noses at the mention of chopped liver. Among traditional Jewish foods still eaten today, only gefilte fish elicits greater derision . It saddens me to see a food as great as chopped liver lose ground, as fewer and fewer people seem willing to eat it. It deserves all the respect in the world—after all, it's likely what French foie gras comes from.
I'm not in any way an expert on keeping kosher, but my understanding is that because livers are seen as containing a lot of blood, traditional koshering methods for meat aren't considered sufficient. The livers must be cooked in such a way that their juices can drain off immediately, which means that searing them in a pan or other vessel is forbidden.
Searing in a skillet is, as I mentioned, against kosher rules, but for those of us who don't keep kosher, it is technically an option. It's also a good one. You can get great browning on livers in a smoking-hot skillet, which makes it a better choice, so far as flavor is concerned, than a weak gas grill or broiler.
After tasting both the browned and the not-browned batches, I decided to have it both ways by sautéing the minced onion until it's soft, removing about half, then continuing to cook the rest until it's browned. That provides a low-level sweetness and roasty depth, without crossing too far into the sugar zone.From left: duck fat, vegetable oil, and schmaltz.
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