CIRCLE OF LIFE: Bagels and Lox: The Quintessential Brunch of New York City By Mark Eardley
fish-for-bagels is Lox – salmon. The word comes from the German “lachs” and the Yiddish “laks” – and it’sSliced more thickly than its smoked alternative, real lox is from the intensely rich, fat-striped belly of Pacific salmon that have been preserved inBefore the convenience of effective canning and refrigeration, salting or “hard curing” was the way to preserve salmon.
. This cured-fish focused store was opened on the Lower East Side in 1914 by her great-great-grandparents, the husband-and-wife team of Joel and Bella Russ. Some years previously, the enterprising couple had started out in the fish business with a pushcart selling traditional, eastern European-style pickled herring.Russ & Daughters occupies that rare and tiny place on the mountain top reserved for those who are not just the eldest and the last – but the best,” said Anthony Bourdain.
Although it may be hyper-traditional, intensely salty lox has been totally pushed aside by the milder taste of lightly-salted and then lightly-smoked salmon. Due to massive over-exploitation of Atlantic salmon, the terms Nova and Gaspe now simply refer to smoked salmon. The chances of it being from a wild Atlantic fish are extremely remote. Far more likely it will be from a fatter, richer-tasting salmon reared in the much less demandingly exertive caged waters of a big Atlantic salmon farm off the coast of Chile, Norway, Canada or Scotland.
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