Chef Michael Mina Wants the World to Cook More Egyptian Food

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Chef Michael Mina Wants the World to Cook More Egyptian Food
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In his newest cookbook My Egypt, the restaurateur offers an innovative and deeply personal introduction to the cuisine of his birthplace.

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Michael Mina: When I opened my first restaurant, Aqua, in 1991, it was an all-fish restaurant—not Japanese or Italian or any one cuisine, but just a fish restaurant. It wasn’t the time for me to turn to Egypt, in part because I don’t think people would have understood a Middle Eastern-style restaurant at that time. In all honesty, I grew up with a mentality of not wanting to be different. I moved from Egypt when I was two years old to the center of Washington state, basically to a farm town.

It’s really the same with any cuisine. Why is saffron risotto so great? Because when it’s made right, it’s the best. That’s their koshari, right? When I’m flying home, the first call I make after booking my flight is to my mom, saying that I want koshari. That’s how much I obsess over it—it’s just pure comfort, and the layers that go into it make it really delicious.

Egyptians love to laugh, to socialize, to argue, to negotiate, and all those things combined mean community—people sitting around a table. In the mornings, you’ll find ful medames carts everywhere, and you sit down with your pickles and breads and just join tables. In the book, I talk about sweet potatoes as a winter phenomenon, roasted in smokers and served in their skins, sometimes with honey . Now, in New York, it might be a hot dog stand, but in Cairo that’s what they do.

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