This week our food writers tried one of Bon Appetit’s 50 best new restaurants, flirted with soup season, checked out a new drive-through coffee shop in...
new restaurants of 2022, I visited it for lunch — twice. Two menus are offered: one vegan, the other filled with animal proteins. I’m an omnivore, but sincegushed over the vegan menu, I ordered heavily from it . Their tacos are prepared with your choice of seven house-made tortillas: cilantro, guajillo chile, cactus, mango habanero, and beet versions are subtly flavored, and their colorful hues add visual appeal.
My favorite vegan taco cradled a filling I’ve never seen before: hibiscus with cauliflower. Strips of the hibiscus petals are pan-fried with cauliflower. It’s a brilliant, unconventional use of hibiscus. The cauliflower bits take on a caramelized edge that contrasts with the hibiscus’ natural tartness. Chile and lime flavors season the filling, and the pickled red onion and cilantro add an extra spark of flavor. My tortilla choice? Beet, which echoed the filling’s magenta hues.
My hunger-busting barbacoa sope, suadero taco, and mushroom quesadilla on fresh-pressed tortillas at Huapango Mexican Cuisine in Preston Hollow were all absolute fire. So it’s odd to share that the best thing I ate this week was the tiny restaurant’s sopa de fideo. A server asked if I’d like to try the soup after spotting me taking paparazzi-style pictures of my spread. I took her cue, said yes, and ordered the largest size available for carry-out after one sip.
At Huapango, this comforting Mexican staple is made with slippery-soft macaroni noodles, carrots, yellow squash, peeled potatoes, chicken, and wisps of beaten eggs that all swirl in a deeply rich broth. It’s simple and soul-warming, perfect for kids or adults, and it’s something I’ll definitely be driving back for once this hot spell finally drops and the induction into soup season begins. –
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