Balmain Pre-Fall 2025 collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
Pre-fall is showroom season. And of all the showrooms we visit, Balmain ’s 9th arrondissement center of operations is amongst the buzziest. Both in womenswear on the ground floor and men’s in the basement, the models who roam the space in rotating looks appear to be having a blast. While the in-house retail teams and wholesale visitors seem tightly focused, the timbre of their dialogues is uplifted by laughter. Crucially, the designer is present.
Olivier Rousteing moves here and there between sections of his collections via moments with the models as they meander past. Despite the agreeable atmosphere, Rousteing says he is working to create tension by mining dichotomies. One central tension here runs between aristocratically historic Versailles pomp and democratically contemporary Parisian elan. Rousteing’s negotiations include a typical Balmain peak lapelled tailored jacket that explodes into mini panniers at the hips.
Around the structure there is slouch in diamond quilted leathers and denim and oversized contemporary military outerwear in leopard and cheetah. Tweed, which Rousteing says represents around 30% of daywear sales, is deformalized through color, embellishment, cut, and placed in combination with leathers. Hardware includes the founder-favorite gold chains on belt charms and jewelry and the big-buckled belt detailing on bags and powerfully waisted envelope dresses.
As so often, the central intersection betweens menswear and women’s runs through tailoring. With half an eye on the upcoming Met Gala’s Black Dandyism theme, Rousteing has riffed on the urchin swagger of the Titi Parisien to evoke a hometown version of the dressed-up archetype.
One particular highlight is the fur lined slide soccer boot in three colorways that Rousteing says will be called the “Halftime” and that features convincingly professional looking cleats. There are menswear equivalents of the oversized contemporary military outerwear and slightly more structured versions of the gorgeous cocoon coats seen upstairs. As we head back up there, Rousteing says: “It’s a fresh expression of our DNA.
Pre-Fall 2025 Runway_Review Runway
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