A new perfect tomato sandwich (from the geniuses at estelanyc)
instead. It feels entirely new—bolder, richer, juicier, crunchier—for virtually the same number of ingredients and movements in the kitchen. In a sense, this recipe is simply a way to haveThe food at Estela is famed for looking deceptively plain—a loose heap of endive leavesand streaks of chile vinegar like pine needles covering the forest floor; bison tartare pebbled with sunchoke chips and pickled elderberries, all served in a messy jumble. Deceptively plain lasts until you take a bite.
He slices a long, skinny plank from the bottom of a loaf of pumpernickel , lops off the side crusts, then singes it in a hot cast-iron pan in a little olive oil, pressing the bread against the smoking pan till it resembles a very large cracker. Last little chef’s kiss is a gentle scrape of the raw garlic clove over the toast, leaving just a hint of it behind—like, like the easiest-ever garlic bread, like we should be doing to most pieces of toast we make.
Of course the Estela team use the abandoned bits of bread elsewhere—as breadcrumbs in the aforementioned cheesy granola crumbles; in romanesco-like sauces and the cod roe spread —but if you don’t want to have to find a use for them, feel free to do this same squish-’n’-griddle move with a normal slice of bread.But Fromager d’Affinois, a double-cream, mellow, Brie-adjacent cheese is also perfect. It floats above the crispy toast as a soft bed for the tomato instead of sinking in, and makes a lustier, saltier foil for the tomato’s bright siren juices. It skews more meal than condiment.
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