A review of Cove, chef McGarry's new restaurant on West Houston Street, highlighting his refined culinary style, attention to detail, and innovative approach to fine dining. The review praises the elegant ambiance, the visually stunning dishes, and the harmonious balance of flavors. The restaurant is reminiscent of New Nordic cuisine with adventurous and delicious elements.
Cove , located on West Houston Street, signifies a continuation of chef McGarry's established culinary style rather than a sudden maturation. His cooking and his businesses have always exuded a sense of precision and sophistication, devoid of any juvenile elements. Even during his early career, when he was gaining experience at prestigious establishments like Alinea and Eleven Madison Park, and garnering attention through profiles and blog posts, McGarry's approach was consistently refined.
He never catered to a younger demographic; instead, his focus was on delivering a meticulously crafted, high-end dining experience. At his previous restaurants, Gems, he cultivated a flavor-focused approach perfectly suited for those intimate settings. Cove, being a larger establishment with a more formal service style, maintains that same unwavering dedication to detail, stylishness, and culinary passion.\The restaurant's interior reflects this commitment to elegance, with stylish wooden walls adorned with striking botanical paintings. Sleek wooden tables surround an open kitchen where the team of chefs operates with focused precision, with McGarry at the center. The dishes are visually stunning, with careful consideration given to every element. A salad of golden beets with smoked yogurt, initially met with hesitation, proved to be an exceptional dish, showcasing a variety of yellow-hued beets complemented by the vibrancy of nasturtiums. Despite the complexity of McGarry's creations, they remain streamlined and balanced, where every element contributes to the overall flavor profile without being overly showy. A dish featuring artichoke purée surrounding tender Jonah crab is a prime example of this philosophy. The purée's subtle brininess and vegetality harmonizes with the crab's sweetness, further enhanced by the sour notes of freshly baked bread. McGarry's trust in the balance of flavors allows him to create simple yet outstanding dishes.\McGarry's culinary prowess extends to other inventive dishes, such as oysters poached in chamomile oil accompanied by creamy chestnut, and a carrot roasted to marshmallow sweetness, tempura-fried, wrapped in caraflex cabbage, draped in uni and drizzled with quince syrup. Each dish features layers of flavors and ingredients, assembled in a way that feels harmonious rather than chaotic. During one visit, the chef presented the grilled half lobster, the centerpiece of the tasting menu. He explained the process of using the lobster's brain, which is puréed with black trumpet mushrooms and fennel, and then returned to the exoskeletal noggin and adorned with caramelized mushroom slivers. The lobster's claws and knuckles are later served in a rice broth with mushroom, walnut and dehydrated chicken stock tuile, which enhances the symphony of umami. Desserts are equally innovative and delicious, with a celery root and passion fruit cake and a huckleberry semifreddo with chocolate shards and cherry blossoms. While Cove incorporates elements of West Coast and East Coast cuisine, it more closely resembles the New Nordic culinary style, which was popular in the late 2000s. McGarry masterfully revitalizes this aesthetic, crafting dishes that are both intentional and explorative, showcasing unusual vegetables, edible flowers, and house-made elixirs. The Winter in the Northeast tasting menu, with its assortment of small bites and decorative elements, is a testament to the chef's artistry and innovation, sparking joy and delight in the dining experience
Cove Mcgarry Restaurant Fine Dining New Nordic Cuisine
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