An exploration of the underrepresented Puerto Rican culinary scene in Los Angeles, featuring chef and author Monti Carlo and her mission to bring authentic boricua flavors to the forefront.
Los Angeles is renowned globally for its extraordinary gastronomic diversity, boasting a landscape where cuisines from every single corner of the earth can be found.
However, even in this melting pot, certain traditions remain surprisingly obscured. One such example is cocina criolla, the rich and vibrant culinary heritage of Puerto Rico. Despite the city's status as a food mecca, Puerto Rican food often falls through the cracks, perhaps due to geographical distance or the lack of a concentrated population to sustain a wide array of specialized eateries.
This gap creates a longing for those connected to the island's roots, as the soulful flavors of the Caribbean remain underrepresented in the vast sprawl of the Southland. Into this void steps Monti Carlo, an accomplished chef, writer, and advisor for the James Beard Foundation. Her latest work, a cookbook titled 'Spanglish: Recipes & Stories', serves as more than just a collection of meals; it is an act of cultural reclamation.
Born in Puerto Rico and raised in Texas, Carlo embodies the hybrid identity that the term Spanglish represents—a blend of languages and cultures often used to marginalize those in the diaspora. Through her writing and cooking, she transforms this term into a badge of honor. She argues that Puerto Rican cuisine deserves a more prominent place not only in the city's professional restaurants but also within the home kitchens of Los Angeles residents.
Her upcoming conversation at The Crawford in Pasadena, featuring a live cooking demonstration with LAist writer Gab Chabran, aims to bridge this cultural divide and introduce a wider audience to the nuances of her heritage. At the heart of Carlo's culinary philosophy is the concept of balance rather than heat. Unlike the spicy profiles often associated with Mexican cuisine, Puerto Rican food relies on a sophisticated interplay of contrasts. The plantain stands as the most fundamental pillar of this tradition.
Brought to the island by enslaved people from Africa, the plantain is incredibly versatile, transitioning from a starchy, savory vegetable when green to a sugary, soft treat when ripe. Carlo highlights the pastelon—a layered dish of sweet fried plantains, savory beef mince known as picadillo, and melted cheese—as a perfect encapsulation of this balance.
The depth of these dishes is further enhanced by two essential bases: recaito, a fragrant green puree of peppers and herbs, and sazon, a dry blend of garlic, oregano, and annatto. These elements together create a flavor profile that is distinct, comforting, and deeply rooted in history. While the options may be limited, authentic Puerto Rican flavors do exist in Southern California for those willing to seek them out.
Establishments like Mofongos in North Hollywood and Senor Big Ed's in Cypress have become vital sanctuaries for those craving a bowl of mofongo or a plate of pasteles. The story of Senor Big Ed's is particularly intriguing; it began as a Mexican fast-food outlet called 'Green Burrito' before evolving under the ownership of Rafael Rodriguez and later Yolanda Coronado.
Today, the restaurant stands as a bastion of boricua culture, where the menu is unambiguously Puerto Rican, even if the name still confuses some visitors. These institutions provide more than just food; they provide a sense of belonging and a tangible connection to the island for the diaspora living far from the Caribbean shores
Puerto Rican Cuisine Monti Carlo Los Angeles Food Cocina Criolla Spanglish Cookbook
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