Discover the unspoiled beauty and cultural richness of Sumba, an Indonesian island known for its wild landscapes, traditional customs, and luxury wellness retreats.
Straddling the Wallace Line separating the biogeographical realms of Asia and Australasia, lush Sumba is a couple of island hops east of Bali in the southern reaches of the 3,200-mile-long Indonesian archipelago. As close to Broome, Australia as it is to Jakarta, it’s a hilly, sparsely developed island intersected by just two main roads — yet it’s 15 times the size of Singapore. Life here feels remote and detached.
Thatched-roofed villages cluster around megalithic tombs and most locals continue to adhere to traditional Marapu beliefs, an Indigenous religion rooted in ancestor worship. Indigenous languages are more widely spoken here than Indonesian, and animal sacrifices still commonly mark significant events — especially the annual Pasola Festival, a mounted spear-throwing competition held in February or March. Edged by rugged volcanic cliffs and blonde beaches, and known for its remote surf breaks and intricately woven ikat textiles, Sumba remains refreshingly untouched by mass tourism — at least for now.The nature immersion Leaning into the island’s wild environment, longstanding luxury resort Nihi Sumba offers a wellness programme that seeks to showcase the rugged and remote environment. The resort is famous for its stable of sandalwood ponies, which have been a part of Sumba life for centuries and are still used in traditional island ceremonies. Guests can try equine therapy, experience yoga breathwork on horseback, or take the ponies for a restorative swim in the aquamarine shallows of Nihiwatu Beach, an arc of white sand punctuated by unusual rock formations. There are plenty of other ways to combine nature and wellness at the resort, too. Water-based meditation and underwater workouts are both offered as part of the fitness programme, while a ‘spa safari’ provides another opportunity to immerse yourself in the wild. Offered as a half- or full-day experience, it starts with a journey through the jungle that can be as adventurous as you like: guests can make the four-mile trip by 4WD or on mountain bike, foot or horseback. The destination is a serene seaside location, four miles east of Nihi by road, complete with a sacred spring and infinity pool. Once settled into the clifftop spa hut with a soundtrack of crashing waves, choose treatments such as a Sumbanese head massage using Sumba 7 Detox Oil. Developed for Nihi by British pharmacognosist Dr Simon Jackson, it incorporates seven healing Wallace Line flora — a spicy-sweet smelling mix of betel nut, cinnamon, coriander seed, galangal, ginger, mangosteen skin and turmeric.Photograph by NIHI Sandalwood ponies have important cultural significance on Sumba with their lineage dating back to the 18th century.The sign welcoming guests to ‘The Edge of Wildness’ seems apt following the cross-island airport transfer to Nihi in a 4WD. The 28 villas — all with private pools — are inspired by traditional Sumbanese houses, characterised by thatched, peaked roofs and furnished with local textiles. A packed schedule of activities offers the option to fill your days with traditional weaving classes, breathwork sessions or simply surfing Occy’s Left, the resort’s legendary house break — where only 12 surfers per day are permitted to paddle — before swinging by the Boathouse Bar for happy-hour drinks and canapes as the sun sinks behind the Indian Ocean in a blaze of hibiscus hues. There are also two relaxed restaurants with sea views, serving unfussy dishes including Indonesian classics like slow-cooked beef rendang. Most ingredients are organically farmed on site and the hotel has a root-to-leaf ethos: papaya stems, for example, are cleverly used as cocktail straws. About three miles west of Occy’s Left, Pantai Beach lures surfers with its long right-hander, with more breaks to be found further north up the coast. Bring your own board or rent fromAbout two hours’ drive (around 40 miles) north west of Waingapu, the largest town in eastern Sumba, plus a 20-minute hike, is Air Terjun Tanggedu — arguably Sumba’s finest waterfall, with terraces feeding into cyan pools you can paddle in. Closer to Nihi (roughly a 90-minute drive), is the lovely Lapopu Waterfall, a 10-minute walk from the access road. Rent a car or book a trip with a local tour operator such asA network of rugged walking trails lacing Sumba weaves along rocky cliffs, through forests filled with endemic plants, and into traditional hilltop villages. To ensure you don’t get lost, it’s best toSumba’s domestic Tambolaka Airport is a 90-minute flight from Bali. Here, guests are met by an African-style safari car for the scenic two-hour drive to the resort.start at £1,550 per villa per night, sleeping two to six people, full board, excluding alcohol
SUMBA INDONESIA LUXURY RESORT NATURE IMMERSION WELLNESS SURFING Ikat TEXTILES MARAPU BELIEFS PASOLA FESTIVAL NIHI SUMBA
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