Cooper Sharp has exploded in popularity as a pizza topping. In Philly, the trend is driven by the Pizazz — a little known hyperlocal pizza that uses American cheese.
The distinctly Philadelphian brand of white American cheese has exploded in popularity as a pizza topping. A collage of pizzas from Cacia's Bakery, Cafe Carmela, and Tempo, three Philadelphia area restaurants that use Cooper Sharp as a topping.
Every day, the kitchen at Cacia’s original South Philly bakery goes through 20 pounds of shredded Cooper Sharp cheese, according to fourth-generation owner Joe Cacia. Not for cheesesteaks — the most widespread use of the white American cheese — but for pizza. Cacia’s started selling Cooper in 2024 on a square pepperoni pie that layers shreds of cheese and a drizzle of“I immediately knew that it would be something people love,” Cacia told The Inquirer. “As soon as people hear Cooper cheese nowadays, you have their attention.” Cacia’s isn’t the only pizza shop experimenting with the ultra-melty cheese as a topping. Across the United States, Cooper Sharp’s appearance on pizza menus has grown by just under 140% since 2022 , according to data the brand provided from. Cooper Sharp’s growth puts it on the path to be served at 1 in 4 restaurants nationwide by 2030 based on Datassential’s projections. The boom comes as the regional American cheese has been catapulted to stardom asIf Cooper Sharp can conquer cheesesteaks in a city that is notoriously finicky about what toppings are allowed on its signature sandwich, who’s to say it can’t top pizza?“If you asked me five years ago if Cooper Sharp would be a pizza cheese, I might’ve said, ‘I don’t think so,’ said Michelle Spoerl, Cooper Sharp’s brand manager. ”And now as we’re seeing this momentum, I’m like, ‘Absolutely.’"But the trend runs much deeper in and around the City of Brotherly Love, where pizzaiolos are choosing Cooper Sharp for both its melt and deep name recognition. Cooper Sharp was created in 1893 by I.C. Cooper, a former banker from New York who moved the brand’s headquarters in 1918 to Philadelphia, where it languished as a cult-favorite deli cheese. Green Bay, Wis., dairy manufacturer Schreiber Foods acquired Cooper Sharp in 1985, though the brand hasn’t lost its distinctly Philadelphian touch, recently inkingUnlike most other American varieties, aged cheddar is added to Cooper Sharp’s processed mix to produce a higher fat content — and thus a tangier cheese.Cooper Sharp’s origins as a pizza cheese begin with the South Philly Pizzaz, a hyperlocal pie whose originators don’t even use it. Former Celebre’s Pizzeria owner Ronnie Celebre created the Pizzaz inside his 1536 Packer Ave. restaurant sometime in the 1970s as a means of grilled cheese-ifying pizza, said current owner Michael Spina, who took over Celebre’s in 2000 after working there as a teen. The Pizzaz — which can be made in both circle and square form — layers slices of regular white American cheese and tomatoes with a sprinkle of a banana peppers.The Pizzaz is one of Celebre’s most popular pizzas and has largely remained a South Philly delicacy until recently, when odes starting popping up on menus in Northeast Philly andCafe Carmela started serving their version of the Pizzaz upon opening in Northeast Philly in 2020. The restaurant’s version is inspired by owner Joe Maglio’s South Philly-raised wife Anne Marie, who would take him on dates to Celebre’s. Maglio’s recipe makes some slight tweaks: He adds a sprinkle of shredded mozzarella to the top to prevent the pizza’s base slices of Cooper Sharp from burning. The cheese melts much quicker than the dough can cook.sells about 100 Pizzazes a week, Maglio said, though most Northeast Philadelphians tend to add pepperoni or sausage. The Cooper “gives it such a different taste,” said Maglio. The inspiration goes from a grilled cheese made with Kraft singles to one with white cheddar., a new sports bar and nightclub in University City, has a similar story. The restaurant’s limited pizza menu includes a Detroit Style Pizzaz with Cooper Sharp that draws on owner Steve Masterson’s upbringing in Scranton, where American cheese is Cooper Sharp can be temperamental to work with, Masterson said: If you undercook the pizza, the dough can get gooey while the cheese has a perfect melt, but if you overcook it, Cooper Sharp burns to a crisp. Still, Masterson can’t imagine doing it any other way.Testa Rossa in Glen Mills , Cooper Sharp makes an appearance not as a novelty, but as a part of the Italian American restaurant’s plain cheese pie.“Because Cooper Sharp melts so gooey, it creates something kind of like a sauce in the oven ... It was what we were looking for the entire time,” Devine said. The thickness, according to Devine, matters more than anything else. If he were to use a standard deli-style slice, “suddenly it becomes too American cheesy.” At Testa Rossa, Devine starts making every cheese pizza by slapping slices of Cooper Sharp atop the dough. Marinara follows, then layers of provolone and mozzarella cheeses. The result, according to Devine, is something akin to a blush sauce. Already, said Spoerl, Cooper Sharp is starting to cash in on its new pizza cheese cache. For the first time this March, they exhibited at theBeatrice Forman I'm a food writer who covers how trends are reshaping Philadelphia's dynamic food scene, from the growth of Philly's restaurant merch to why venture capital-backed chains can't stop coming to our city. I also cover labor dynamics — and changes to the workplace — within the hospitality 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