A row erupted between the new owner of Morston Hall and its former executive chef, Galton Blackiston, leading to Blackiston’s departure and claims of declining standards.
Morston Hall , a renowned country house hotel in Norfolk boasting one of the UK’s longest-held Michelin stars, has been embroiled in a dispute following a change in ownership.
Henry Elworthy, the new proprietor, revealed a breakdown in his relationship with Galton Blackiston, the former executive chef, leading to Blackiston’s departure in November. Elworthy alleges that Blackiston lost interest after the sale of the business in April of the previous year, resulting in a decline in food quality and negative customer reviews. He described Blackiston’s behavior as akin to ‘a child in the kitchen’ and accused him of actively undermining the business.
Despite these claims, supporters of Blackiston point to the restaurant maintaining its Michelin star just weeks before his exit, alongside its four AA Rosettes. Elworthy detailed financial struggles upon taking over Morston Hall, citing a 20 percent revenue drop in the first quarter of the previous year. He further accused Blackiston of a possessive attitude, suggesting he ‘didn’t want the business to survive without him’.
The dispute extended to staffing decisions, with Elworthy criticizing Blackiston’s implementation of four-day work weeks for front-of-house staff, which he claims led to increased payroll costs due to overlapping shifts and overtime. These changes were later reversed to five-day weeks in December. Elworthy expressed the extent of his difficulties with Blackiston as being beyond description, emphasizing the challenges faced during the transition period.
Following Blackiston’s departure, Morston Hall underwent a refurbishment after Christmas and has appointed Phil Kearsey as its new executive chef, previously of Pied a Terre in London. Elworthy asserts that guest feedback has improved significantly under Kearsey’s leadership, with many describing the food as the best it has been in years. He highlights the ongoing culinary excellence of the establishment, maintaining its long-held Michelin star and its status as a culinary institution.
The current eight-course taster menu is priced at £145, featuring dishes like truffled Orkney scallop and Merrifield duck. The hotel, with its 13 bedrooms, aims to build on its history and offer a special experience to its guests
Morston Hall Galton Blackiston Michelin Star Henry Elworthy Norfolk Restaurant Hotel Food Quality Chef Dispute
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