Foie gras is once again on the chopping block in Philly. Councilmember Cindy Bass introduced the bill to ban it last Thursday, despite it appearing on few menus in Philly.
The luxury meat has been embroiled in controversy for decades—but not much has changed.last week, reviving the debate on whether or not to serve and sell foie gras, the fattened liver of a duck or goose, achieved through force-feeding.
The delicacy is only produced by two farms in the U.S, neither of which are in Pennsylvania. Foie has long stirred controversy due to the practice of gavage, where feed is piped directly down the throats of ducks and geese two to three times a day for two to three weeks to fatten their livers to around six times their normal size right before slaughter.
. Why ban foie now? Few restaurants in the area use it, and those that do buy it in small quantities. Pennsylvania doesn’t even have a foie gras industry.
“The City Council – we, have taken a renewed interest in the care of animals, the way we do things here in the city and how we produce food products,” said Bass. .
“It tastes like good, clean, rich fat,” he said. He seasons the foie gras with seasonal preserves like concord grape or strawberry and fennel, and sells the foie terrine by the slice. At the announcement of the bill, Bass said, “Cruelty should not be part of commerce in Philadelphia. ” But, on examination, the level of commerce generated by foie gras, seems minuscule.
Alfiero charges $4.50 per ounce for his foie terrine, or about $70 per pound on a product whose raw materials cost him about $40 per pound. Alfiero only brings in about four to eight pounds of foie gras per month. Since he sells an average of six pounds of terrine per month, his gross profit on just that item is $180 per month. The ban is unlikely to affect Alfiero much.
“It would be a bummer not to have foie anymore. It’s a wonderful partially-natural occurrence that we have figured out a way to manipulate. But I don’t think that foie is totally necessary. I don’t depend on it,” he said.
, to store enough fuel in their bodies to travel long distances.
“The number one rule of animal husbandry is creating low stress environments for your animals. If gavage was a high stress activity it wouldn’t have lasted very long. It wouldn’t have been worth the effort. The meat wouldn’t be good,” said Alfiero.
, where a seared foie gras appetizer costs $26 and about four lobes are sold per week , described well-treated ducks when he saw foie production. It’s in stark contrast to other farms he has regularly visited.
“I don’t like killing anything. If I see an animal stressed out, the meat isn’t going to be good. I don’t care about the price,” said Cusack. But Cusack expects that if Philadelphia passes the bill, New Jersey would soon follow suit.
Factory farming is a much more significant problem in terms of animal cruelty.
“In the American food system, millions of chickens are forcefully fed steroids to get as big as possible in as little time as possible so that people can have. That’s a much bigger problem,” said Alfiero.
“This constant attempt to ban foie gras is a way for advocacy groups to say they’re making a difference for animals without going after large corporations that they know they can’t touch. ” When contacted by The Inquirer, both Vetri Cucina and Starr Restaurants declined to comment.
Previous attention brought to restaurants serving foie gras also broughtto their doors, like those that have repeatedly gone to Lacroix at the Rittenhouse. in American farming?
” Passing the bill will be a multi-week process, starting with a hearing that will likely be in the fall, then going to a committee and legislative session.
“We’ve already heard from some of the food and restaurants associations with some concerns about the bill. So I am open to visiting a site or facility to check it out. I’ll make it happen, if not in the spring, then over the summer,” said Bass. Bass, who said she loves eating out “everywhere,” named “Capital Grille, the Ritz-Carlton , and the Loch Bar,” as some of her favorites.
None list foie gras on their menu. When asked how she envisioned the ban would be enforced, Bass said, “We would be talking to restaurateurs, primarily those that currently have it on the menu, and ask that they remove it from the menu. And there would be significant penalties if it is not removed. ” If the bill passes, it would be an easy win for the City Council.
They would only have to go to a handful of Philly restaurants to enforce the ban. I am a former chef and restaurateur. I write stories about food, chefs, and restaurants, and examine the systems and structures behind them. 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