As today marks ten years since the designer’s death, a collection of reflections on his legacy from those who encountered him
was that rare fashion powerhouse, of which few remain – a designer whose work spanned decades, and a changing world with them, and who responded to those changing times with clothes. Saint Laurent did so under his own name – YSL, as the acronym once went , became synonymous with the newly outfitted woman of the 1960s and 1970s, continuing to wield influence the decades since.
Dazzled, or dazzling, is the word which sticks when considering the vast catalogue of work, and archive – stored still in Paris at 5 avenue Marceau – he left behind. The shows themselves now seem like from another time entirely – regularly stretching over 100 looks, they were characterised by an astute, unrestrained use of colour, and an imagination that would allow him to reach back through epochs, and jump between the salon and the street.
He was always most passionate though about the coterie of women, and men, who surrounded him. They were the ones who stoked the fires of his imagination – from Loulou de la Falaise to Paloma Picasso, and, of course, Catherine Deneuve, who would become a living, breathing embodiment of his woman. It was her too, in his most troubled times, who would lend her arm as he struggled to take his final bow on the catwalk.
“Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga and Dior all did extraordinary things. But they worked within a particular style. Yves Saint Laurent is much more versatile, like a combination of all of them. He’s got the form of Chanel with the opulence of Dior and the wit of Schiaparelli.”“Saint Laurent designs for women with a double life. His clothes for daywear help women to enter a world full of strangers.
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