A shopper's-first primer on the promising world of on-demand manufacturing.
Until last month, it was something of a Herculean task for interested shoppers, of which there are many, to get their hands on one of Telfar's iconic "Bushwick Birkins." But unlike an actual Hermès carryall, exclusivity was never founder Telfar Clemens' intention. Demand had simply eclipsed supply. So for one single day in late August, the brand decided to do things differently.
Designer Autumn Adeigbo launched her eponymous made-to-order fashion brand in 2017, and has spent the last three years building a label in which the fashion industry's greater carbon footprint is top of mind. Clearly, her mission has legs: Over the summer, Adeigbo secured $1.3 million of institutional investments from roughly 15 investors, including Stitch Fix CEO Katrina Lake.
"Moda Operandi has been such a trailblazer," says Adeigbo. "I mean, I've bought from them and waited between three weeks to six months for my product because if I want it, I'll wait for it. And I'm not a fast consumer. When I buy something it'll be in my closet for a decade, probably.
To be clear: Just because a fashion brand has no inventory does not mean that it is "good" for the planet and/or the people with whom it works. A label can minimize its excess fabric while still sourcing that fabric from shifty suppliers. But by moving less product upfront, a made-to-order brand can ensure the garments it's making will be created, and worn, with intention.
So yes: Made-to-order production has the potential to address some of fashion's most glaring pain points, especially as consumers continue to advocate for a slower, more conscious model — one in which we wouldn't mind waiting weeks for a delivery if it meant the garment was created with care.As promising as no-inventory may be, it's not for all brands — at least right now, when moving toward on-demand manufacturing could require a top-to-bottom business overhaul.
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