Women’s Designer of the Year Rick Owens produced some of the most spellbinding work of his career, parading it on a desolate stretch of the Lido beach in Venice.
Indeed, his spring 2021 collection — amid so many escapist themes — felt like the defiant fashion act everyone had been waiting for. Owens called his display “an exaggerated middle finger to doom” expressed with major shoulders, thigh-high boots, lurid colors, crisp tunics, flowing robes and sculptural capes. It felt like he had invented a potent and realistic new brand of glamour.
“I’m a Scorpio, so I hold grudges,” Owens said at the time of the fall show. “This is about defiance against menace. It was also about mocking convention,” he added, rattling off a few targets: “Our pajama culture, our comfort culture and our entitled culture.”Owens was one of the few designers in any fashion capital to put face masks on all of his models through the worst of the pandemic, and they added edginess — and a dose of reality — to his grandiose designs.
Owens confessed that he had long bristled at the idea of collaborations. “Initially, I would just completely dismiss them as just being some kind of hype exercise that was not part of my world,” he told WWD earlier this year. “But on the other side, I came to realize that it’s a great way to meet new people, and see how other people do things.…And it’s kind of fun working with different teams, and it’s stimulating, it kind of forces me to think of challenges and new ways to approach things.
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