Why Shell Cordovan Leather Is So Special, Rare and Expensive—and Where to Get the Best

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Why Shell Cordovan Leather Is So Special, Rare and Expensive—and Where to Get the Best
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The glossy horse hid makes some of the best shoes and accessories you can buy. Here's what makes it worth the price.

“Materials with vegetable tannage do not like heat, pressure of water.” In response, Crockett & Jones assigns only its most skilled staff to the process, which utilizes older machines that are easier on the material but require constant upkeep. “This all adds time and cost to the production process, with full-time engineers beavering away making parts that are no longer available,” Fox says.The results, however, are worth the pain.

But for proving so fussy in the factory, shell cordovan is famously low maintenance in its finished form. Because its dense fiber structure holds onto the vegetable fats used in the tanning process, shell cordovan’s signature luster can be restored through simple brushing with a stiff horsehair brush.

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