Why Our Associate Restaurant Editor Is Obsessed with This Pan

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Why Our Associate Restaurant Editor Is Obsessed with This Pan
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The Always Pan promises to replace eight pieces of cookware—and it delivers.

seems like it was made to win new-wave cookware bingo: designed in Los Angeles, it comes in a muted, chic rose color called “spice”, and claims to do the work of eight pieces of traditional cookware. What drew me in, though, was the message behind the brand, which prominently features people of color in their kitchens, cooking their own food, and enjoying it with their families.

In my own kitchen, the pan earns its keep by easily transforming from stir-fry wok to dumpling steamer to steak skillet. I use it to make pancakes in the morning and simmer pasta sauce for dinner; it’s just as good for frying eggs as it is for sautéing greens. The handle’s nesting spatula rest saves me from dirtying my countertop or a plate, and the built-in spout makes it easy to serve curries when I can’t find a ladle in the chaos of my utensils drawer.

I don’t want to say the other items in my kitchen should be worried, but they’re definitely going to be up against some stiff competition.I’m not quite sure why the word “side” is in here, because as far as I’m concerned, these are the main event. I reach for them when I need to serve soup or salad, as I feel like they tend to be a little too wide and deep for things like oatmeal and cereal. The speckle pattern is beautiful when paired with the spice-colored terracotta bottom.

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