Why Old Bay Is Suddenly on Everything

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Why Old Bay Is Suddenly on Everything
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  • 📰 washingtonian
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Goldfish crackers, vodka, hot chocolate—the beloved crab seasoning is everywhere now. Find out how Old Bay went from the back of the pantry to the top of everyone’s feed:

, a downmarket, ’70s-era crab house on the side of a six-lane highway behind BWI. At 3:30, people are already bibbed out and hammering at crab shells with wooden mallets, a soft percussive clatter beneath the Goo Goo Dolls song that ricochets off the walls.

Old Bay sells best by word of mouth, and lately everyone is talking about it. The story of the Old Bay brand renaissance is one part ingenious viral marketing and many parts people like Kyle, the youngish white guy sitting next to me at the Crabtowne bar. He’s wearing an O’s cap and drinking a pitcher of beer by himself, and when I ask if he loves Old Bay, he gives me the side-eye. Slowly, in the tone of a man who’s been body-snatched, he replies, “Well, we all love Old Bay.

What’s in Old Bay is a little mysterious—its parent company, McCormick, is coy about the recipe, stating that it’s a “proprietary blend of 18 herbs and spices.” Today’s can lists only celery salt, red pepper, black pepper, and paprika, but a pre-McCormick can at the Baltimore Museum of Industry also lists mustard seed, pimento, cloves, bay leaves, mace, cardamom, ginger, and cinnamon.

The can is synonymous with Old Bay, the engine of its nostalgic charm. Its design evokes Maryland’s salad days: abundant fisheries, sky-high industrial production, a thriving middle class. And for some, the design is an heirloom—the same style of can they grew up with, the one their parents and grandparents had. Even more than the recipe, the can embodies Old Bay’s history, which is central to the seasoning’s appeal.

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