Ultra-exclusive places, like Rao’s and the Polo Bar, once seemed like rarities in the city’s dining scene. Now clubbiness is becoming a norm, Hannah Goldfield writes.
Gary is more than a regular at 4 Charles; he’s one of only a few people who can get a table there at all. The restaurant is ostensibly open to the public, but if you’re not Gary—or Taylor Swift, whom Gary told me he’d been seated next to a few nights prior—you’re probably not getting in. According to more than one thread on Reddit, your chances of booking a reservation even the instant a batch of them is released on Resy, at 9 A.M. each day, are slim to none.
“The best reason to run a functionally private restaurant in New York is also the saddest reason,” Deshmukh told me, as we ate seafood salad and roasted sweet peppers strewn with golden raisins and pine nuts. In the face of inflation and exorbitant rents, “it’s easier to focus on the six hundred people who can pay your bills than on serving the masses.” When your tables are reserved only by regulars, he added, “the number of no-shows goes to zero.
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