Try a new salon. Get a crappy cut. Rinse and repeat. How is it that so many professional hairstylists are total amateurs at styling curly and coily hair?
dodead-panned in an Instagram Stories video from a photoshoot. She said her curls, which were supposed to have a classic, voluminous look allowing her texture to take center stage, were instead fashioned into a veritable bird’s nest of frizzy, undefined tangles.
“The stylist did so much bullshit to my hair, I was laughing because it was so ridiculous,” Crawford wrote. “And then I got on set, and everyone was praising him for his ‘work.’ I was appalled. I got my check. I got the f*ck out.” Although artists are known to take creative liberties, and hair is no exception, even the untrained eye could see Crawford’s hair looked matted and damaged—a frequent outcome resulting from a lack of knowledge about how to work with tighter natural textures. Sure, everyone has likely had a bad style or cut in their lifetime, but for Black women, experiences like Crawford’s are all too familiar. Far too often, we’re left to deal with the dearth of education and salon service around natural hair.The hair industry in America is one of the countless institutions that’s deeply rooted in anti-Blackness—which makes having naturally curly or kinky hair, despite our pride in it, a continuously polarizing experience. Straight, silky, long hair has been idealized for decades, leading young Black girls to undergo chemical straightening processes or incessant heat styling to subdue our hair for school. That standard then continues into the working world thatfor wearing our curls and coils at the office. And if we do decide to wear our curls, coils, and kinks in all their glory? We might find ourselves in a situation like Crawford’s, where we’re left feeling demeaned and denigrated at the hands of a stylist. “It made me feel so ridiculous that I didn’t feel confident enough to do my job properly. I couldn’t stop thinking about the little girls who look like me and have hair like mine seeing those images blown up,” Crawford tells. “The only precaution I should have to take is to show up to set with my hair clean and ready to style—just like the non-Black models.” In 2020, as the natural hair movement continues to rise, it seems absurd that stories like this are still the norm, and yet until hair-school curriculums and classes become more diversified, the problem persists. “Stylists are educated in pretty much one hair type, because they don’t need to know more for their state exam—but when they get into the salon, it’s like they’re back in beauty school again,” says Aisha Gatlin, who founded the
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