The Louisiana Creole dish, chock full of greens, comes in both vegan and meaty versions.
Gumbo z'herbes from Dooky Chase's Restaurant in New Orleans includes greens as well as meat.
The dish also has a fascinating story. The name gumbo z’herbes is a Creole contraction of the French, so called because it contains multitudinous greens. It comes out of a Southern Louisiana tradition of cooking and eating green gumbo during Lent, the 40 days leading up to Holy Thursday. During that period, many observant Catholics abstain from eating meat on Fridays, and many gumbo z’herbes are vegan.
It also includes filé , a traditional Choctaw ingredient, rather than okra, which is only in season in Louisiana and Texas from June through the first frost. Interestingly, etymologists disagree about whether gumbo gets its name fromIf you’re now thoroughly confused because you thought gumbo always included seafood, chicken, sausage or other meats, you’re not alone. Just know that there as many kinds of gumbos as there are cooks in Louisiana.
Many gumbos begin with a roux — flour slowly cooked in butter, oil or other fat till it’s anywhere from golden to deep brown. And most include the “holy trinity” of Louisiana cooking: diced onion, celery and green bell pepper.The recipe for Gumbo Des Herbes in Leah Chase’s, first published in 1990, includes an ingredient not easily found outside of Louisiana — hot chaurice, a type of crumbly sausage.
I loved cooking and adapting Dooky Chase’s iconic recipe, which does not begin with a roux but rather by chopping, boiling, then puréeing a giant mountain of those nine greens, plus onion and garlic , then steaming all the meats except the crumbly sausage in the resulting pot liquor. Youmake a light roux, put everything together, and simmer about an hour. Finish the gumbo with filé powder, and serve over rice.
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