Let us count the ways.
. There are some newish Los Angeles–based names too, like Second/Layer and 4THSEX . Meanwhile, Lost Daze, Bode New York, and the aforementioned labels, Old Park and The Letters, both from Japan, are coming this fall. The duo has spent a lot of time considering, Dryden says, “how we could bring our newness and taste to [Departamento]. A lot of stores are narrow in their focus and offer only one type of look. We wanted all different types of people to come in and be able to find themselves.
Yet let’s be clear; what’s on offer here speaks to specificity in one distinct way. It’s fashion with a capital F . Consider the likes of Ludovic de Saint Sernin, the terrific young Parisian designer who favors lean leather and femme loucheness. Ditto Marni, a label he loves, where he’s willing to run with some of creative director Francesco Risso’s more avant-garde impulses.
At the mention of Marni, Dryden turns to the store’s buying approach: “The traditional model is to spend 70% of your budget on pre-collection, and 30% on runway. We’re more like 70/30 the other way. We will buy a little of the pre-collections, but the whole point is to offer runway clothes, the stuff you connect with when you see the show. But it’s all considered,” he continues.
“Even looking back four years ago at what I was buying, or even wearing...we’re still using the same tools to evaluate and consider the work, but [menswear] has gone down an amazing path,” Dryden says. “I’m relatively conservative today, but I’m willing to wear virtually anything, and I can now assume that of other people.” That’s as true of L.A. as anywhere else, he says.
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