Liber Pater founder Loïc Pasquet talks his $33,000 bottles of wine made by hand from start to finish using ungrafted heritage vines in Bordeaux.
, the tiny hamlet of Pichou appears abandoned save for a rugged-looking fellow in overalls and wellies, with the long, flowing hair of a romance-novel cover model, plowing a field of twigs behind a strapping white horse. Vineyards generally don’t look like much in late winter, but the barrenness here is extreme.
Still, most small-quantity wines cost between $150 and $600 per bottle. Why is his so much more? In response, Pasquet tosses out a line we would come to hear many times throughout our time together: “What is the price you are ready to pay to have dinner with Napoleon?” None of the opposition seems to bother Pasquet. “I won the case on appeal, and it set a legal precedent, paving the way for various ungrafted-vine grapes to be planted and recognized in Bordeaux,” he says, pointing out that the INAO was unable to find any text within its regulations prohibiting Franc de Pied. He seems to enjoy trolling his detractors, having been quoted incrowing that the lawsuit “saved me €150,000 in advertising, and the price of my bottle continued to rise.
Pasquet does his big work on a small estate in Graves, a subregion of Bordeaux. Even so, Liber Pater is not classified as a prestigious Bordeaux Superieur but rather, thanks to its unconventional mix of varieties, is labeled Vin de France, the lowest category in the French-appellation hierarchy, used for entry-level blends with no regional identification. Yet Pasquet claims to make the only wine that can authentically be called Bordeaux.
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