Too many of us bypass the closest part of France to the UK – those who linger enjoy soaring chalk cliffs, vast beaches, superb seafood and verdant marshes ideal for exploring by boat
ith the tide out, it is a magical moment, rivulets of water swirl and eddy through the sand, the white cliffs of Cap Blanc-Nez loom behind me. There’s not a soul in sight. This jagged headland marks the start of the Côte d’Opale, which runs south-west from Calais for about 75 miles, and is part of the Pas-de-Calais region.While most travellers arriving in Calais or Boulogne head straight for Paris and beyond, I’m here to explore this affordable and often bypassed corner of France.
The Cap Blanc-Nez juts out from sheer chalk cliffs that run to a second wild promontory, Cap Gris-Nez. Hiking or biking the 10 miles separating the two capes can take a day: the route runs across deserted dunes and beaches that feel endless. Just by Cap Blanc-Nez, the friendly, family-run Hôtel l’Escale is a good base for exploring the coast and sampling top-notch local cuisine.
An hour’s drive inland is Saint-Omer, a trading centre for textiles in the middle ages, today a bustling town with a Gothic cathedral, ruined medieval abbey and wonderful flower gardens along the city ramparts. Day trippers head for, an eco-centre dedicated to the flora and fauna of the Unesco-listed Audomarois marshes. From the eco-centre, a one-hour boat trip gives a good educational introduction, though it takes longer to get a full impression of these immense wetlands.
We pass wildflowers and rushes growing on the banks, and then farmers working away in neat, earthy fields. I spot many stalls at Saint-Omer’s teeming Saturday morning market loaded with produce direct from the Audomarois. At restaurantwith produce from local growers and farmers . I enjoy haddock creme brulee, beef cheeks braised in red wine, then apple and nut flan with cider ice-cream.
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