Merrill Shindler loved crispy chicken wings as a kid. Since then, the veteran restaurant critic says they’ve only gotten tastier, with many new and delicious takes on the classic.
in Van Nuys, go there during a sporting event, when the small stage is replaced by a big screen, and partisans spend the evening screaming themselves hoarse. That’s true whether the sport is basketball, baseball, ice hockey or American football.
It’s easy to feel that you’re a decided outsider, when you show up during one of those matches, for the partisan atmosphere in the place is thick enough to cut with a butter knife — and everyone seems to know the names of every player. They’re obsessed. Which is just as it should be. If you’ve ever been to the Nando’s Chicken chain in London, you’ve eaten peri-peri sauce, for their dishes are all based on it. It’s as addictive as sriracha, maybe even more so. And it flavors the chicken wings, as South Africans might say, “brilliantly.” There’s also a house Buffalo sauce, a barbecue sauce, and a lemon-garlic sauce.
And at Sattdown, it’s easy to understand why — the chicken is just about perfect, tender and crunchy at the same time, with a flavor that grabs hold of you, and doesn’t let go. This is a spice that’s addictive. Considering how broad the possibilities are for a goofy school theme, Public School is actually pretty subdued. Servers aren’t dressed in uniforms like students at parochial school, the bartenders are neither teachers nor principals, there’s no fire drill, and you don’t have to take mid-terms before being served your meal.
I like the crispy Buffalo cauliflower which is, as it sounds, Buffalo chicken wings done with cauliflower, and a blue cheese dip to go with it.with bacon and cheddar, which make the Tater Tots of our callow youths seem sad by comparison. They come with sriracha-flavored ketchup.
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