'Making a small batch of vinegar is, in a way, making history.'
To understand the process of making vinegar, consider the grape. As it fruits, the sun and water and the nutrients present in the soil create the sugar held within its cell walls; resting on the surface of its skin are naturally occurring yeasts and bacteria waiting for their time to feed. When the grape’s cell walls are compromised , the yeasts get first dibs, gorging on the sugar and creating ethanol in its place. A wine is born.
“You don't have direct control,” says David Zilber, former head of fermentation at Noma and coauthor of“We get behind the wheel of a car, we drive to work, we turn the wheel left, the car goes left—that’s like the human understanding of control. Working with microbes is like building the road for the car that goes downhill, having no engine and having no wheel, but trusting that you’ll end up where you want to at the end of the day.
The process of turning wine into vinegar presents a gateway into the world of fermentation, much like, that at worst leads to discarding some failed experiments; but at best can broaden the perception of one’s place within an environment.
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