What, Exactly, Is Oud?

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What, Exactly, Is Oud?
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It's warm, musky, animalic, and slightly sweet — a deeply rich and complex fragrance that lingers long after it's been applied or burned.

"Natural oud, the scent arises when a particular fungus places itself on an aquilaria tree," Geza Schoen, founder and perfumer for the fragrance brand

explains. "A reaction creates a resin that slowly embeds into the wood creating agarwood, known as oud, which is then soaked, and using a distillation and evaporation method is developed into an oil." Vietnam, in particular, has a noted history of oud harvesting. During the Vietnam war, the U.S. droppedover the country's forests, scoring and wounding a great number of wild aquilaria trees and kicking off a new generation of oud to come. It can take several years for this heartwood to form a desirable aroma profile, either distilled into oil or chipped away to

. It's warm, musky, animalic, and slightly sweet — a deeply rich and complex fragrance that lingers long after it's been applied or burned."Each version [of oud] has its own olfactive specificity ranging from herbal to woody," Givaudan senior perfumer explains over email, lining out the regional differences of agarwood trees. "Across other countries, there are different variations like aThe first time I experienced oud in a fragrance was in my early days as a beauty editor, circa 2014. I was sent a tiny vial of, a perfume oil from an indie brand called Strangelove. The thing wasn't much bigger than a D battery; I even inquired if this was just a sample and was told that it was indeed the full-size, going for $500 . Yikes.

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