Cut-out slip dresses, bodysuits and halter tops have been peeping out from everywhere in recent months, but be it at Boohoo or Balmain, the trend has featured a marked lack of body diversity.
has also returned to TikTok and while these discussions tend to be healthier than in the past, some images from the SS22 runway of skinny models in cut-out bodycons and tiny, low rise skirts would not look out of place on Tumblr-era thinspo blogs. When cut-outs are repeatedly worn by models of the same size, and particularly when they are placed in areas that reveal jutting hip and collarbones, they run the risk idolising a single body type that is not healthy or achievable for most.
However, it doesn’t have to be this way. A new wave of designers are using cut-outs to directly challenge body norms, drawing attention to curves rather than covering them. Karoline Vitto,and Michaela Stark are among the designers celebrating the parts of the body that women are told to hide.
“Whenever you add a cut-out into a garment, the whole fabric behaves differently, especially when working with jersey,” the designer continues. “However, cut-outs also mean that there is more give in the final piece, so technically it could fit more people. The problem with that is that, when done in a rush, you might end up with a piece that many people can ‘fit into’, but that is not necessarily well-fitted for any of them, with gaps and fabric twisting around their bodies.
Sinéad O’Dwyer has a similar vision of body inclusivity that forms the very foundation of her process. She always samples in UK sizes 12 and 22, starting with 22, considering curvier bodies from the outset rather than as an afterthought. The designer’s latest offering featured puffy satin cut-out dresses with criss-cross tights and bodysuits inspired by Shibari rope-tying.
When it comes to cut-outs, custom is one way forward but it’s not the only way. If garments were made to fit a wider range of bodies from the outset, then the cut-out trend would be much more accessible.
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