When Drake rapped in 2017 about having the last table at Carbone, he was likely referring to the original location. Now, there are five Carbone locations.
Julian Barsotti opened Carbone’s Fine Food and Wine on Oak Lawn Avenue in uptown Dallas in 2012. The restaurant pays homage to his grandfather Angelo Carbone, once a successful restaurateur in his own right, and it's been beloved by locals over the past decade. But when most people hear “Carbone,” it’s probably not Barsotti’s Dallas restaurant that comes to mind.
Some local restaurateurs admit the import of flashy, high-profile restaurants is good for the scene. But others worry that it’s changing the very identity of local dining culture. Independent restaurants used to feel pressure to compete with multinational chains like Ruth’s Chris and Olive Garden—now they also have to contend with the Hakkasans and Carbones of the world.
When Drake rapped about having the last table at Carbone, he was likely referring to the original location. Now, there are five Carbone locations. The presence of a notable restaurant group can raise the culinary profile of these cities and attract tourists. However, the negative effects of these expansions are often out of view of customers.already bad before the pandemic
Jamila West, the co-owner of Rosie’s in Miami’s Little River neighborhood, sees the import of high-profile restaurants in under-resourced parts of town as a way to effect positive change. She cites Marcus Samuelsson’s success with Red Rooster in neighboring Overtown as a template for Black business owners. “I think Red Rooster has done great things for that community, in the sense that it’s created a lot of jobs and created a sense of hope,” says West.
“They’re catering to the one-percenters who have unlimited funds, and they’re doing it through celebrity, so that means that everyone wants to go to these places,” she says. “They’re just reinforcing the fact that every single restaurant here has to be a“If we want to get our native dining scene up to the next level, we need to figure out why we are seen as a mark for outside restaurant groups.”
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