Wellfleet oysters have been beloved by everyone from Queen Victoria to Anthony Bourdain — can they face off new competition?

The pandemic has hit the local industry hard, with sales nosediving by about 50%.

For centuries, the town of Wellfleet, Mass., situated close to 20 miles to the tip of Cape Cod, has built its reputation around the oysters that thrive in its waters. So much so that the briny bivalves are simply known as Wellfleets to many a fan.

“You got to work a little harder,” says Jim O’Connell, a veteran Wellfleet oyster farmer, who often rises at the crack of dawn to tend to his harbor plot. The Wellfleet Shellfish Promotion and Tasting organization, a nonprofit group that’s behind the local industry, is the one that’s been doing most of the heavy lifting. As part of its recent efforts, it has been working with a brand-development consultant and has trademarked the phrase, “Wellfeets. The Quintessential American Oyster,” as a way to stand out from the crowd.

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