Virginie Viard makes her haute couture debut at post-Karl Chanel. See more here:
yesterday as Virginie Viard made her haute couture debut. Would she continue Karl Lagerfeld’s vision? And what exactlyher own vision? Question after question, opinion after opinion. And now Virginie has spoken. It’s a new day at Chanel, and a woman is at the heart of it once again. It goes without saying that Virginie had giant shoes to fill, but she is slowly ushering in a fresh perspective to the biggest couture house in the world.
One of the most remarkable things about this show was that it was so much more restrained. There weren’t lashings of costume jewellery, excessively high heels or extreme hair and make-up. The models looked like themselves with fresh faces and slicked hair. There were no handbags, instead, hands were casually placed in pockets. There was none of the kitsch irreverence, bold colours and dramatic embellishment that Karl would toy with each season.
So, Virginie sent out perfectly tailored wide trousers with subtly feathered hems and worn with flat loafers. The Chanel tweed jackets came with round shoulders and shorter sleeves. The Chanel tweeds came in dungarees and tuxedos, too. Louche silk déshabillé robes with hints of feathers finished the show with the kind of masculine glamour that Coco pioneered.
"I dreamt about a woman with nonchalant elegance and a fluid and free silhouette -- everything I like about the Chanel allure," Viard said in a statement. Although her vision for Chanel is more austere, it still makes use of couture’s mesmeric wizardry . And of course, the Chanel codes are still very much there, but Virginie is re-configuring what about Chanel is relevant to how women want to dress today. It’s not a dramatic departure, but in some ways it’s a radical act.
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