Valentino RTW Fall 2023

.MaisonValentino's Pierpaolo Piccioli transformed the necktie, a symbol of uniformity, into something resembling freedom of expression.

Last year, Pierpaolo Piccioli was surprised to discover that his teenage daughter Stella had pilfered and adopted one of his suits, styling it with a shirt and tie. She dressed like this just to go out with friends.

That skinny, superfluous length of silk became the springboard for Piccioli’s punchy Valentino collection for fall, and indeed the starting point for each outfit. Piccioli seemed to relish working within that narrow framework, and managed to coax many moods and spark random associations with neckties, not only school uniforms, but also ska bands, Lagerfeld, the “Men in Black” film franchise, Kraftwerk’s “The Man-Machine” album cover and even Avril Lavigne, who has been turning up all over Paris Fashion Week.

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