Utah climber gets 5-year ban from Denali in plea deal over rescue requests after near-fatal fall

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Utah climber gets 5-year ban from Denali in plea deal over rescue requests after near-fatal fall
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Charges that Dr. Jason Lance misled rescuers to get evacuated after his climbing partner fell 1,000 feet were dismissed, but another climber questions parts of his story.

Updated: April 3, 2022Jason Lance , of Utah, during his attempt to climb Denali via the West Buttress route in May 2021. to get evacuated after his partner fell 1,000 feet during a Denali summit attempt has agreed to a five-year ban from North America’s highest peak.

The charges said Lance asked for a helicopter evacuation for the three climbers, saying they were in shock and experiencing early hypothermia. The next day, rangers said, he refused to hand over Rawski’s satellite communication device and appeared to delete messages from it.In an agreement last month, Lance pleaded guilty to violating a lawful order of a government employee. Charges of interfering with a rescue operation and making a false report were dismissed.

Another climber with him on the mountain, however, said Lance’s personality complicated the aftermath of the disaster, and he questioned some of the details of Lance’s narrative.Lance said he paired up with Rawski after they met at the 14,200-foot camp waiting for a weather window and decided to climb together.

Wilson, a 23-year-old guide, mountaineer and skier who grew up in Fairbanks, had never met Lance before but befriended Rawski in a climbers camp earlier that week. Lance said that’s not what happened. He had climbed to a flatter area to flag down two other skiers in Wilson’s party but didn’t see them and came back.

On Saturday, Lance said the request reflected a combination of factors: the pickets he needed to descend were in Rawski’s pack and there weren’t enough new ones placed on the route yet that season; the trio were experiencing “psychological shock”; and they were all shivering, an early sign of hypothermia.

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