Undercover Men’s Spring 2025: ‘Fictional’ Linen-Loving Tribes

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Undercover Men’s Spring 2025: ‘Fictional’ Linen-Loving Tribes
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Undercover men's spring 2025 runway, fashion show & collection review: Jun Takahashi dressed his 'fictional tribes' in loose, bohemian layers.

Jun Takahashi happened upon the Australian band Glass Beams on YouTube and shared his discovery by projecting a music video of the mysterious trio as the backdrop to his spring men’s show for

Takahashi embraced linen — the fabric of the season — in all its rumpled, gauzy glory, dabbing it with drifting cloud motifs and cutting it into lightweight, unstructured jackets and blousons with bohemian airs and loose, drooping sleeves. Some cardigan-easy jackets came decorated with streamers or tassels; others with colorful, mismatched buttons or zip-off sleeves.

Via an interpreter, Takahashi said he wished to incorporate some “women’s taste” into his men’s offering. There was even a whiff of Rue Cambon in brocade cardigans, the pockets and hems trimmed with gold chains.

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