The United States sport climbing team is dominating the Pan American Games in Chile and giving a boost to a teenager from Texas and a 24-year-old exercise science graduate to bid for Olympic medals in Paris. The 17-year-old Samuel Watson and Kelly Piper won the men’s and women’s speed events in Santiago, and their U.S.
The United States´ Samuel Watson and Ecuador’s Isaac Estevez compete in the men’s speed sport climbing quarter finals at the Pan American Games in Santiago, Chile, Sunday, Oct. 22, 2023.
Texan Watson started climbing at age 5 at a local Lifetime Fitness health club. Last year, as he perfected his ritual of kicking the wall before the start, he brought home a gold medal in his first year on the circuit. “Paris will be nothing like I have experienced so far, but I want to live the same life. I am not planning to attend quinceañeras after this medal when I get home, I have a clear goal in mind and I also want do do business school at the University of Utah,” said Watson, who believes climbers need more than talent.
Sport climbing made its debut at the Tokyo Olympics in 2021, with athletes competing in speed, bouldering and lead, with added scores at the end. The lowest scorer was the winner. Paris will offer two events; a combined competition of bouldering and lead events, as in Santiago, and the speed competition.
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