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Beyond Bánh Mì It’s been an exciting year for ambitious Vietnamese restaurants, including Moon Rabbit, where you’ll find this platter of marinated pork. Photograph by Rachel Paraoan.Kevin Tien’s reinvented Vietnamese restaurant should be at the top of every food lover’s to-do list.
Gone are the plates of family-style double-fried chicken and crawfish pasta. In their place are lovely innovations such as a purple-yam risotto, a foie-gras-and-mushroom-filled pastry, and a delicately layered stack of taro, sweet potato, and yuca with coconut mousse and celtuce salad. Fancy crab rangoon is everywhere these days, but I haven’t had a version that comes close to Tien’s.
Pastry chef Susan Bae also weaves savory accents into her creative desserts. They include a pandan panna cotta with seaweed and a cake laced with green curry and served with fish-sauce caramel. The one not to miss, though, involves durian, the famously stinky Southeast Asian fruit. But there’s nothing remotely challenging about Bae’s satiny durian mousse, which contrasts brilliantly with icy shards of passionfruit granita.
Times have changed. Now the area boasts a very good butcher/sandwich shop ; a hit vegan-friendly Mexican restaurant with a sibling burrito joint ; the quirky-cool Motorkat, in Republic’s old space; and, as of January, the snug Vietnamese market and dining room Muoi Tieu.
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