Travel: This Baja resort with ‘brutalist’ architecture boasts its own shaman

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Travel: This Baja resort with ‘brutalist’ architecture boasts its own shaman
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The adults-only Paradero Hotel, which offers nature hikes, massages and cleansing rituals, has been called ‘the anti Cabo.’

An hour away, boozy vacationers wore T-shirts emblazoned, “Chase me like a shot of tequila” in hard-partying, colossal Cabo San Lucas resorts. I, on the other hand, remained peacefully ensconced at my “brutalist” eco-lodge, ringed by 160 acres of family-owned farmland in Mexico’s secluded Baja desert.

Soon we crossed a shallow creek to a thatched hut where, during an A-plus ancestral massage, Jorge realigned my hips by twisting them in a sling and opened my cranium without surgery. He also placed a sprig of cleansing sage in my belly button and covered it with a hot volcanic stone to seal in good juju.

Visually, the stunning Paradero looks like an earth-sprouted fortress. Debuting in February 2021, its 41 suites are encased in twin two-story rippling beige concrete structures designed in the architectural “brutalist” style and melding into sands that coat the cacti- and yucca-specked property. Brutalist buildings became popular in the 1950s, are largely monolithic, and include housing projects, universities and, yes, prisons.

“The bathroom is outside the room exactly so you can disconnect from the room, connect with nature, and then go to the bathroom,” Paradero general manager Arturo Soto later explained.My Sky Suite also featured a cool rooftop “star net,” basically a two-person stretched hammock suspended above my second level and bolted to exterior walls. At night, in the silence, I dreamily stared above at countless celestial sparkles.

“Instead of holding you here, you know with beaches, bikinis, margaritas … our model is different,” said Pablo Carmona, co-owner of the Paradero with Joshua Kremer. The Mexico City financiers were on-site for a Paradero foundation fundraiser. A sign welcomes visitors to Todos Santos, once a sugar cane capital and now a Mexico-designated “Magic Town.”

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