Three restaurants in New York offer decadent renditions that transcend time and trend and season.
It’s a wonderful time in New York City to be a person who wants a slice of cake. Yes, I see the crafted beauty of a layered entremets, I revel in the elegance of a molded mousse, I will happily eat a cupcake, and I’ll rejoice in a late-summer pie. But there is something perfect and eternal about the slice: a piece of something bigger, a shared opulence, a bit of family style, a bit of birthday-party glee.
And then a shoulder shimmy, and a secret little smile. “But I saved you the final piece.” A prayer of thanks for the mercy of a loving server—this cake is a thing of beauty, with three layers of chocolate cake and three layers of vanilla cake staggered in between.
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