I ate very well at Beit Rima, Good Good Culture Club and San Ho Won.
It’s been four years since I last witnessed the summer fog in San Francisco come barreling over Twin Peaks, soon to blanket the city. I’d forgotten how fast the mass moves, almost like you’re watching a time-lapse video but the speed is real life, and how the cloudy wisps cluster and bond almost as if they’re sentient.in the 2000s. It’s more comforting now.
I’m in the Bay Area on a reporting trip. You’ll hear more about it in the coming weeks. Meanwhile, I’ve also been checking out restaurants that opened sinceEnjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles TimesIn early 2019 Samir Mogannam began taking over locations of the local BurgerMeister chain established two decades ago by his father Paul.
For more substantial plates, look to the Gazan-style lamb shank submerged in spiced tomato sauce. Scoop to the bottom of the bowl to retrieve the maftoul — hand-rolled Palestinian pearls of pasta made from whole wheat and bulgur. His take on samak bil tahineh presents a whole, beautifully fried branzino with tarator on the side, shutta and a tuft of herb-onion salad.
Two of us plowed through a minty shrimp and cabbage salad set over coconut-makrut cream and tossed with fried butter beans for crunch; another salad of little gems in a bright, earthy taro leaf dressing; tempura soft shell crab with green curry ranch dressing and chickpea-sized English peas; and the night’s favorite, grilled short ribs cut galbi style smeared with a cherry-sesame compote.
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