Diomene, GR10K and Ascend Beyond are the new brands to watch at Milan Men's Fashion Week for spring 2025.
— with names including Martine Rose, Dunhill and David Koma joining the calendar for the first time — a host of homegrown designer labels are bringing their take on Italian tailoring prowess via a workwear and utilitarian lens to Milan Men’s Fashion Week. Here WWD sat down with Diomene,and Ascend Beyond to hear what it’s like to have a big stage and still stay true to one’s DNA.
The spring 2025 collection — Diomene’s fourth — is rooted in soft, deconstructed tailoring imbued with a crafty feel that, Doma said, evokes spirituality, purity and languid sensuality without compromising wearability. Cue the silk pajamas and soft linen sets featuring workwear jackets, roomy shorts and make-do-and-mend vests worn with slouchy crewnecks, as well as the occasional tone-on-tone embroideries exuding an arty vibe.
Earlier this year, GR10K also attracted investors. The owner of buzzy Italian brand Magliano, Underscore District, acquired a majority stake in the label and is committed to scaling its potential, from venturing into new product categories to building a stronger international footprint. The collection includes collaborations with Factory 900, a Japanese eyewear brand based in Fukui, and Deep, an organization committed to preserving biodiversity for which GR10K created uniforms inspired by field work gear. The lineup also includes a new iteration of the cobranded footwear with Salomon.GR10K Replicated,” a selection of carryovers and essentials representative of the brand’s key codes.
A Millennial born in 1996, he’s the type of guy one could find on a trekking trip or mindfulness retreat somewhere in central Sardinia and clubbing until dawn in the Milanese suburbs.
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