Thom Brown's spring 2022 ready-to-wear collection is here. View all the looks:
Thom Browne is the master of the grand gesture. At his spring 2022 presentation today, the audience could be carried off in awe in so many directions: Pegasuses rode penny-farthings, a couple of bachelors haunted a raw wood house, models turned from shrubs into statues—and that’s just what happened on the runway. In the front row was every relevant artist, author, and athlete, from Lil Huddy to Russel Westbrook to Jeremy O.
What was great about seeing Browne back in action in three dimensions was being able to see the small gestures, too. Those rainbow colored tulle dresses that made up the finale, with trompe l’oeil drapery and abs, were not painted, but dozens of layers of tulle built up like a topography of the human form. Teddy Quinlivan’s long sheath had an arm sewn to the torso, and the models who walked in the show’s first passage were layered in at least four Browne tailoring separates.
Each of those 200 shirts, pants, skirts, suits, jackets, bags, shoes, and hand-made gray flowers was, in not so coded language, a love letter to American fashion. Browne moved his show back to New York for one season only in support of his partner Andrew Bolton’s exhibition “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion” opening at The Met on Monday.
The presentation began with a voiceover about a couple of bachelors stuck indoors, looking out over an aging garden. Classic statuary, the tradition of carving a marble block into a contrapposto David, charted the show’s three parts: Part one, twenty Platonic suiting ideals. Part two, the pure marble slab as tunic and maxi, fastened with a hook-and-eye up the back. Part three, a trick of the eye, a flex of artistry, full force in tulle.
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