The designer paid tribute to his Mammaw in a deeply moving show for Fall 2022.
left him with a "hollowness" he'd never experienced following a presentation. The Covid-19 crisis had led to a kind of internal reset long before September, but still, Maxwell decided to move forward with his typical fun, dancing-models runway — and even taking his finale bow, he looked unhappy. "What I was most upset with myself about is that I went back and did that in September when it wasn't in my heart.
"If I'm going to go again, it has to be for a reason," he said. "I had already been working in her image for the collection, but I was like, I'm not going to do what I did in September, which is have a show for everybody else. I'm going to do a show for her. If this is the bookend, I want to be happy with it."
Which is how just 100 guests, all of whom had some kind of personal relationship with Maxwell, ended up in a quiet room blanketed by heavy black drapes and lit by sparse spotlights — no pre-show cocktails, no food trucks lined up outside, just a small space for Maxwell to present his latest ideas. The Fall 2022 show opened with a deeply emotional video; it started with Maxwell prompting Siri to read, followed by clips from his brand and a montage of personal home videos and photos with Mammaw.
Models then took the runway, not dancing, but weaving slowly through the aisles — all the better for the audience to appreciate the construction of the clothes, something that has been a focus of Maxwell's of late. "It was back to my roots, in a lot of ways, the clothes; I can see the growth in the inner construction," he said.
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