How a husband-and-wife duo built a community around their Caribbean and Southern cooking.
Writer Von Diaz finds comfort at Durham’s Boricua Soul, where glorious Caribbean and southern fare is served with a heaping side of community.It's the end of a busy day at Boricua Soul, a Puerto Rican–Southern restaurant in the heart of downtown Durham, North Carolina. I'm staying out of the way as I watch tables being pulled in from the light-strung brick patio, the chairs stacked on top; fryers are drained, counters wiped down.
Serena and Tori didn't expect to open a restaurant. They met by chance in 2010 at Tori's divorce party , when they were based in Durham and Palm Beach Gardens, Florida, respectively. Tori was working as a dynamic positioning operator for oil rigs, out at sea for months at a time. The two fell in love hard and fast, and a few months later, Tori moved to Durham, where his sister and grandmother lived.
Ultimately, it's easy to get behind Serena and Tori because they consistently get behind others. During the summer of 2020, the restaurant advocated for justice for George Floyd and supported Black Lives Matter protests across the state via social media. Each Sunday, they host live jazz with Bull City in the Basement, a collective supporting local musicians impacted by the pandemic—their sets draw lines to the register.
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