This Is the Summer of Salted Soda

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This Is the Summer of Salted Soda
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During this particularly scorching summer, restaurants are putting a dash of salt in their bubbly drinks.

. At the reopened Superiority Burger in New York, there’s a salt-cured umeboshi and pluot soda, and down the street, the cocktail bar Superbueno combines pickled plums, guajillo, lime, and salt, for a nonalcoholic soda with a kick.

Josh Hanover, bar director at Mattos’s Estela and Altro Paradiso, explains that the salt is not a gimmick, but the key to expressing other flavors more fully. These sodas rarely taste—the salt simply creates a “fresher, cleaner” taste in the soda, Hanover says. “Salted sodas are my number one bestseller on our nonalcoholic menus.”

The ingredients for these citrus-based sodas combine alchemically: bright fruit enhanced by the smack of carbonation, just enough sugar to soften the sharp acidic edges, and a pinch of salt to supercharge each flavor. Some salted sodas are assertive and straightforward—lemon, salt, and club soda—while others showcase refreshing, breezy flavors like cucumber. The result is a lightly sweet, bracing drink.

Any cold drink can feel like a relief on a hot day, but the electrolytes in salted sodas are what make them particularly refreshing. During especially hot days, wewhich are collectively known as electrolytes. They help us regulate hydration and muscle control. Although drinking and eating salty things typically makes us more thirsty, after a big sweat, sipping a bit of salt helps to replace the minerals we’ve lost.

Salted soda, like almost anything good, is not new. Nimbu soda, a concoction of salt, lime, sugar, and soda, is

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