This Chicagoan explains why true Italian beef is so hard for other cities to get right

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This Chicagoan explains why true Italian beef is so hard for other cities to get right
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You've heard a lot about 'The Bear' and Italian beef, the sandwich that defines my hometown. But do you know what it actually is?

I rarely feel an obligation to weigh in on a particular dish, restaurant, or food trend. But I am from Chicago. And there is this popular FX on Hulu show called “The Bear” that is set in Chicago and is about a particular dish that is from Chicago. And so, I feel duty-bound to say a few words about the divinely delicious, distinctly Chicagoan and oft-misunderstood Italian beef sandwich.

It’s sloppy and unwieldy, and best eaten immediately while standing up. If seated, it’s best enjoyed on a bench outdoors or at your kitchen table. Fries are a good accompaniment, as is a cup of Italian ice served with a plastic straw that has a spoon on one end.That delicious-looking Italian beef Carmy makes in ‘The Bear’? It was created by chefs Courtney Storer and Matty Matheson. Storer shows us how to make one at home.

The bread is essential. It can’t be too soft, lest it disintegrate from the juice. The ideal texture for an Italian beef roll is therefore something akin to a yoga mat — chewy and firm; able to withstand being dunked in liquid while mostly staying intact. The juice, a thin, broth-like gravy reminiscent of oregano and bouillon cubes, softens the bread and aids in consumption. You know how the pros in those hot dog eating contests always douse their hot dog buns in water? It’s the same idea.

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