Remnant slabs of stone laid more than 2,000 years ago pave forgotten trade and military byways across the mountains that divide northern and southern China
Illustration via Pictures from History, Bridgeman ImagesThe Shu Roads welded north to south China. They also became tangents of longing. They delivered art., a titan of the gilded age of Chinese classical poetry, survived on boiled tree leaves in a hut in Chengdu.
“A thousand years ago it must have been a noble work,” the British traveler wrote of a still-bustling Shu Road ina record of her travels in western China in 1897. “It is nominally sixteen feet wide, the actual flagged roadway measuring eight feet. The bridges are built solidly of stone. The ascents and descents are made by stone stairs. More than a millennium ago an emperor planted cedars at measured distances on both sides, the beautiful red-stemmed, weeping cedar of the province . . .
. A few are 800 or more years old, and each one is tagged by the Sichuan reforestation bureau. In the wet mists of Sichuan their massive black boughs drip their own rain.century bureaucracy. Qing Dynasty officials demanded her passport every few miles, she grumbled, copying her particulars on clipboards of slate. This also still happens. At Wulian, an empty inn cannot host us. They aren’t registered to receive foreigners. Two police drive us to their station.
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